At Dandelions we’re not that keen on the word ‘Hutch’ as it has become Synonymous with the housing of rabbits.  Rabbit hutches sold in pet shops are usually pretty inadequate for adult rabbits especially if your rabbit isn’t let out daily – and if you consider a wild rabbits usual terrain is the size of 30 football pitches, you can understand why most hutches arn’t sufficient unless they are let out to have a proper run every single day.

As an absolute minimum, an adult rabbit should be able to stand on its hind legs and stretch out full length in the bed section (if you are buying a baby rabbit anticipate the adult size from outset - it will grow!)  The average hutch is woefully lacking in space needed for necessary exercise.

For ‘outdoor’ rabbits the best accommodation is one that offers a spacious indoor shelter (such as a shed or summer house space) with access to an outside run.  Rabbits dig and burrow, building entire communities underground – and foxes will likewise dig in pursuit of them, so runs situated on grass need to be extremely secure and safe for your rabbit, especially if left unattended.  Hence a permanent run should either have strong mesh sides buried 500cm into the earth or be constructed on a concrete base.  For moveable runs, a heavy duty mesh base through which the grass is accessible and can grow is recommended.

Also never underestimate a fox’s ability to open those rather puny catches found on many commercial hutches, also their aptitude to rip through chicken wire mesh.  It is your duty to ensure your rabbit is safe and so for this we would recommend you secure the doors with padlocks and ensure any mesh areas are doubled up or replaced with a stronger mesh alternative.

Further to this outdoor rabbits must be protected from extremes of temperature, they will need extra protection in the winter from damp and draughts.  The Hutch Huggers range are ideal and provide the appropriate ventilation - there is also a Runhugger and even a Bottle Snug to keep water cool in summer and prevent it from freezing in the winter.  In the summer you need to ensure your rabbit has access to shade and is out of direct sunlight.  Rabbits are also prone to overheating so placing ice pods in their environment is advisable (we recommend buying 2 so one is in the freezer whilst the other is being used!)  You also need to ensure that rabbits are protected (in late summer especially) from mosquitoes and fleas.  Even a rabbit that has been vaccinated against myxomatosis can develop the disease if attacked by a sufficient number of mixi mossies!  Use mosquito nets over rabbit hutches outdoors, keep bedding dry and do not keep rabbits in moist conditions that favour mosquito activity.  Avoid standing vessels of water and be extra vigilant from late August to early October by ensuring your rabbit is indoors by early evening when mosquitoes are most likely to be out.  More about this in Vaccinations.